![]() ![]() With the top cap fitted on the baffle mark 2 points, 2 inches apart, 3/4 inch down from the top of the cap on one side of the cap. Push one to the top of the pipe and the other roughly in the middle. It might be hard to insert the supports at the top ( rippled ) end of the stove pipe, and my recommendation is flipping the pipe over and inserting them from the bottom. If it is not it is best to make new support pieces before moving forward. You should now fit the supports inside the baffle ( stove pipe ) and run the 3/4 inch copper pipe through both supports in order to verify that the baffle will be fairly level vertically. Be sure to rest each support on a junk piece of 2x4 to ensure that you do not drill into your floor. With the 7/8 inch spade bit in your power drill, carefully drill out the the center holes of the baffle supports trying to keep the power drill as level vertically as possible - a drill press would be ideal for this task if you have one. Both support pieces should be fairly identical though some deviation is acceptable - we do want the feeder pipe to be as level as possible through the baffle. Once you have your 2 support pieces find the center dimensions with your tape measure and mark out the centers on both support pieces. We need 2 supports and you can either do the same procedure above or use the 1st support and transfer the length to the remaining length of 2x4. Use the miter saw and box ( if you have one ) to cut the 2x4 to size. Taking the shortest distance measurement from the end of the 2x4 to the mark made ( ~5 inches ) you can draw a straight line across the 2x4 with your tape measure. ![]() You should be able to rest your weight on the 2x4 just enough for the lip of the stove pipe on the other side to leave a mark in the 2x4. Take the length of 2x4 and rest the end on the inside of the top ( rippled ) pipe lip. This is such that the stove pipe cap will fit at the top and the bottom will be left open. The stove pipe will be aligned such that the rippled inside edge will be at the top and the smooth open end will be at the bottom. It is easiest to transfer the inside length of the pipe to the supports using the pipe itself. If you haven't joined the seam of the stove pipe now is the time to do it. I have created a video to go along with this instructable that can be found at the below url: Now that I am using these style feeders I at most see 2-3 squirrels in the yard at a time, and have noticed that unlike other setups I have tried they lose interest in trying to get to the seed rather quickly. I cannot guarantee 100% that this squirrel feeder will work for you, however prior to using these types of feeders my yard was infested with squirrels. Also the baffle is open at the bottom allowing squirrels to climb up into the baffle into a dark chamber where they are confused as to where to go and inevitably return back down the pole. I have found ( through trial and research ) that a squirrel cannot climb up a pipe of this size diameter. The baffle under the tray will be 2 feet tall and have a diameter of 6 inches. Since the feeder should be placed 10ft away from trees, roofs and overhanging branches, and has it's tray roughly 5ft off the ground, squirrels should only have one route to get to the feeder's tray up the pole. The lower baffle has a large enough diameter that the squirrel will not be able to climb it. You simply want to ensure that the squirrel will not be able to jump from the ground to the tray directly. The pole used in this instructable is 6ft tall so you should be good to go. Feeder should be 5ft off the ground, though the first feeder I setup was around 4 1/2 feet. ![]() As you can see from the photo, one of my feeders is fairly close to the tree line ( ~10ft ) so it shouldn't be impossible to find a good spot for this feeder in your own yard.ī. anything that a squirrel could use to jump down onto the feeder. Feeder should be placed 10 feet away from any trees, overhanging branches, roofs, etc. There are some guidelines below that need to be followed to ensure that squirrels cannot gain access, though they are fairly obvious as this feeder has a lower bottom side baffle. I thought my bird feeding days were over, however after some much needed additional research I was able to design / build a very affordable squirrel proof bird feeder that really works! I have been so pleased with the design that I now have 3 such feeders in my yard, and built a 4th for my brother in order to put together this instructable. I love nature, however it got to a point where 14 squirrels were ravaging the bird seed a day, and I stopped feeding the birds. I've tried various strategies baffles, elaborate ways of hanging feeders from trees, separate squirrel feeders, dousing the bird seed with a hot pepper wash, etc. Ever since purchasing my first tube bird feeder I've found myself constantly at war with squirrels.
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